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SECURITY: ON THE JAFFAR EXPRESS

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Train journeys are supposed to be adventures, filled with chance encounters, often with strangers, peppered with joyous interludes at stations big and small. But when your departure, or destination, is the Quetta Railway Station, that is not the case.

As I stepped on to the platform in Quetta on a freezing morning last month, my mind raced back to the November 2024 suicide attack at this same station, which had claimed over two dozen lives.

Balochistan, Pakistan’s largest but most sparsely populated province, has faced a succession of armed insurgencies and terrorism in the past 50 years. The latest escalation has seen militants increasingly target critical infrastructure, including trains and railway tracks. This has fuelled a sense of uncertainty and the constant threat of violence.

At the train station, the anxiety was palpable. It wasn’t just the passengers who were gripped by fear; police and special units also seemed to be in a state of tense alertness, sizing up each traveller as he or she walked through metal detectors, while security cameras recorded each movement. Even the travellers’ clatter was subdued, punctuated by the barks of sniffer dogs and the whistles and horns of incoming trains.

After a brazen and deadly hijacking last year, the train from Quetta to Sindh, Punjab and Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa now moves under intense security. A first-hand account depicts how violence has reshaped rail travel across Balochistan — and why passengers still keep coming back

I was taking the Jaffar Express, which travels southward across Balochistan to Sukkur, Sindh, before snaking north through the Punjab heartland to its final destination, Peshawar in Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa — travelling approximately 1,630 kms over 34 hours. My journey was going to be a fraction of that distance, just over 350 kms till Sukkur. But it is also the scariest leg of the journey, where trains and tracks are frequently targeted by Baloch armed groups.

According to the Pak Institute of Peace Studies, there were 16 attacks on trains/ tracks in Balochistan in 2025, claiming 65 innocent lives. The most brazen of these attacks took place on March 11, 2025 on this very train.

On that day, terrorists of the proscribed Baloch Liberation Army — referred to by the Pakistan state as the Fitna Al-Hindustan — hijacked the Jaffar Express, taking 440 hostages. After a tense 30-hour stand-off, Pakistani forces finally regained control of the situation. They said they had killed all 33 terrorists involved in the attack. At least 21 passengers also tragically lost their lives.

THE JOURNEY BEGINS

Despite the harrowing history, I boarded the train in time for the 9am departure time, but the rigorous security checks delayed us by an hour. As I stepped out to take a few photos of the picturesque train station, a commando approached, reminding me that the area was under tight security. He insisted I delete my photos, a stark reminder of the fragile safety we all felt.

Back on the train, a passenger in my compartment of the carriage offered snacks to the person sitting next to him, only to be met by a polite refusal. My efforts to strike up a conversation with another fellow passenger also petered out quickly.

When the train finally started its journey, passengers across the carriage ensured that the grilled windows were tightly shut — in line with instructions from one of the paramilitary Frontier Corps (FC) soldiers on our carriage — and children kept away from them. There were at least a dozen FC personnel on the train, while I also saw at least two members of Balochistan police and one of the paramilitary Balochistan Levies in my compartment.

Maybe it was because of their presence that a mother felt compelled to chide her child for running in the passageway. The vestibules — the area between two carriages that has the lavatory and also serves as the de facto smoking area — were mostly deserted, with security personnel keeping an eye on any and all movement.

As the train careened towards Kolpur, the next stop, I saw what appeared to be security personnel on vehicles and bikes escorting us. Security check posts remained a recurring feature across the mountainous parts of the Bolan Pass, a historic mountain corridor, and all the way to Balochistan’s border near Jacobabad in Sindh — as much a source of comfort to passengers as they were of trepidation.

The silence and anxiety amplified during unplanned stops along the route; during two such stops in Kacchi district (previously called Bolan), an uneasy silence fell over the carriage.

As on any train ride, periods of silence were interspersed with scattered chatter in local languages, while vendors at stations brought moments of hilarity, with their trademark calls to attract customers.

A view from the Jaffar Express in December 2025, as it enters one of the many tunnels in the Mashkaf area of Balochistan, close to the site of the March 2025 hijacking | Photos by the writer
A view from the Jaffar Express in December 2025, as it enters one of the many tunnels in the Mashkaf area of Balochistan, close to the site of the March 2025 hijacking | Photos by the writer

FEAR ON THE MOVE

The train’s descent from the Bolan Pass toward the lower elevations of the Aab-i-Gum station heightens risks of accidents, particularly due to the possibility of brake failure. A 22-kilometer stretch, it requires trains to slow down, which also makes them more susceptible to militant attacks.

But it was the journey after Mashkaf that had everyone on the train on a knife’s edge. It includes a series of tunnels, including ‘Tunnel Number Eight’, the site of the March hijacking.

A mix of mountainous and plain terrain, the area remains far beyond modern communication networks. Cellular signals are unreliable or entirely absent and road connectivity is extremely limited. The terrorists exploited the region’s isolation and lack of accessibility to launch the attack. Despite that, the timely response from the security forces ensured that a much greater tragedy was averted.

Despite the collective fear — or because of it — passengers pressed their noses against the grilled windows to spot any signs of the March train hijacking and the ensuing gunfight. It didn’t seem to go down too well with the security personnel, but they didn’t articulate their disapproval, focusing instead on their primary task: to keep the train and its passengers secure. 

Fortunately, there were no surprises this day and the train made it to the next station, Sibi, during daylight. The provincial government and security authorities have placed bans — officially and unofficially — on public transport and train movement to and from Balochistan during nighttime.

RACING AHEAD

At Sibi, a large number of passengers disembarked and new ones boarded. There was also a change in the atmosphere, no longer oppressed by fear. I got off to stretch my feet and, realising it was lunch hour, bought some food.

After a short interlude, we were back on track as the train hurtled towards its eventual destination, crossing into Sindh before the onset of darkness. But the tensions had clearly eased: passengers started strolling around, soaking in the lushness of the plains of Naseerabad. At the Dera Murad Jamali station, a young man recorded videos of the station without any interference from policemen standing nearby.

We arrived at Balochistan’s border with the westering sun, but it was still a while from Sukkur, my eventual destination. It took 12 hours, instead of the stipulated 10, to reach Sukkur.

The journey might have been nerve-wracking and exhausting, with more than just a hint of the Wild West about it, but trains — and the Jaffar Express — remain the most popular mode of transportation to travel to and from Balochistan. In fact, despite the hijacking last March, data from the railways shows that the Jaffar Express had more passengers between March and November 2025 than in the corresponding period the previous year.

One of the reasons for this is the high frequency of highway blockades, by protesters and militants, and the attacks on public buses. Meanwhile, flight fares from Quetta are exorbitant and out of reach of most residents. This makes trains the most viable and least dangerous option.

The involvement of security forces in transport has eased some of the passengers’ concerns. There are also plans to add a specialised security bogie to the Jaffar Express, to improve monitoring and threat detection using modern technology. The installation of signal jammers on the train is another preventive measure being considered.

Regardless of when that happens, the Jaffar Express will continue its run through the Bolan Pass. Each shuddering halt, each scanned ticket, each glance at a grilled window is a testament to a journey that persists despite all odds and the grim determination of those who still need to get home.

The writer is a journalist and researcher
with an interest in politics and security.
X: @ImtiazBaluch

Additional input and editing by
Hussain Dada. X: @hydada83

Published in Dawn, EOS, January 25th, 2026



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SMOKERS’ CORNER: MIRACLES AND MATERIALITY

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A recent video showing a Quran that survived the devastating fire at Karachi’s Gul Plaza has reignited a centuries-old conversation. Throughout history, accounts of Bibles, Qurans or Buddhist sutras emerging unscathed from catastrophic floods and fires have been celebrated as Divine interventions. While these events offer profound spiritual solace, a closer look reveals a fascinating intersection of material physics and psychological bias.

From a physical standpoint, Dougal Drysdale, Professor Emeritus at the University of Edinburgh, suggests that a hardbound book’s survival is often due to the ‘Closed Book Effect.’ When shut, a book functions as a dense, oxygen-starved block of cellulose. Because fire requires a steady flow of oxygen to consume fuel, the tightly packed pages resist ignition by preventing airflow from reaching the interior.

In the event of a flood, the surface tension of water against tightly pressed pages creates a natural barrier. This prevents deep seepage for a significant period, often leaving the heart of the book perfectly dry.

American psychologist Thomas Gilovich explains that when a sacred text survives a disaster, it often becomes more than just a book. It is elevated to a sacred relic. This transformation, according to Gilovich, can significantly redefine a community’s cultural path. In the aftermath of the 2011 Joplin tornado in Missouri, US, survivors and news outlets frequently highlighted the ‘miraculous’ discovery of intact Bibles among the rubble of flattened homes.

The survival of holy texts in the aftermath of natural catastrophes is often termed ‘Divine protection’, revealing the cultural and spiritual narratives people love to attach to such instances

While hardbound dictionaries and cookbooks likely survived in the same ruins due to their similar physical construction, these secular items were ignored by the media as mere debris. The surviving Bibles were immediately elevated from functional reading material to sacred relics, often being framed and displayed as symbols of Divine protection.

By focusing on these specific books, the media triggered a cognitive bias that led people to view the event through a supernatural lens rather than recognising the simple physical durability of bound paper.

British scholar Susan Whitfield, in her 2004 work The Silk Road: Trade, Travel, War and Faith, details the discovery of the Mogao Caves in China. In that instance, the sealing of the Buddhist text the Diamond Sutra (868 CE) within a dry, walled-up chamber created a “natural vault” that protected the world’s oldest-dated printed book from the degrading effects of humidity and oxygen for nearly a millennium. The perception of such objects often shifts from the literary to the ‘miraculous’.

During World War I, pocket Bibles carried by soldiers occasionally stopped shrapnel due to the high density of their compressed paper. This led many soldiers to treat the Bibles as protective talismans.

The Codex Amiatinus, frequently referred to as the ‘Grandfather’ of Latin Bibles, has survived for over 1,300 years due to its immense physical durability. According to Drysdale, this enormous volume, created around 700 CE in Northumbria, England, weighs over 34 kilogrammes and was crafted from the skins of more than 500 calves.

The use of high-quality parchment makes the Bible significantly more resistant to fire and decay, as organic animal skins lack the highly flammable, oxygen-trapping fibres found in wood-pulp paper. This Bible remained virtually untouched for a millennium, preserved by the stable environment of an Italian abbey that served as a ‘natural vault.’

In West Africa, the Desert Manuscripts of Timbuktu offer a compelling example of texts surviving environmental factors, a story often framed as miraculous. When Islamist militants set fire to the Ahmed Baba Institute in 2013, there was widespread global concern over the potential loss of thousands of ancient Islamic manuscripts. However, according to the researcher Mauro Nobili, the extreme aridity of the Sahara desert was critical in aiding their preservation for centuries.

The persistently low humidity prevented mould growth and kept the delicate ink stable, allowing for their long-term survival, which many viewed as a modern miracle. However, the more vulnerable manuscripts were secretly shifted to safer locations before the militants set fire to the Ahmed Baba Institute.

During the Viking raid on Lindisfarne — a tidal island off the northeast coast of England — in 793 CE, a legend emerged concerning a sacred book, Lindisfarne Gospels, which was said to have been dropped into the sea by fleeing priests. Three days later, it washed up perfectly dry. While this specific account is often considered apocryphal, the physical survival of such ancient texts is frequently due to their durable leather and metal bindings, which act as a protective shell for the internal vellum.

Gilovich would point to stories such as this ‘dry’ recovery of a Bible as prime examples of how the media and oral tradition prioritise miraculous narratives over the mundane reality of material science, thereby reinforcing spiritual beliefs.

According to the prominent professor of psychological sciences J. Park, communities frequently transform these survival stories into powerful symbols of “Divine protection” as a means of processing the profound trauma of disasters. This phenomenon ultimately highlights a dynamic intersection, where material science meets deep human sentiment.

While the inherent fire-resistant properties of vellum offer logical, scientific explanations for the physical survival of many books, the human psychological element remains paramount. The inherent human need to find order, meaning and hope within chaos is what elevates these surviving sacred objects from mere material items to vital spiritual anchors for a community’s recovery and continuity.

The endurance of these texts represents a profound intersection between material science and human psychology. It is not merely the density of vellum, the chemical stability of ancient inks or the aridity of a desert that ensures survival. Rather, it is the way these physical realities interact with our inherent drive to find order in the wake of destruction.

Gilovich’s research posits that when a community witnesses the survival of a sacred text, they are not simply observing a quirk of physics. They are engaging in what Park describes as “meaning-making”, using the survived sacred object to process trauma and reclaim a sense of ‘Divine protection.’ Whether through the preservation of the Diamond Sutra in caves, or a Bible or a Quran found amidst the ruins of a modern disaster, these serve as a bridge between the tangible and the transcendent. Their survival is a testament to the fact that, while fire and time may consume the material, the cultural and spiritual narratives we attach to them remain indestructible.

Yet, it is equally important that we recognise the physical realities of their endurance, acknowledging that the science of material durability does not diminish the ‘miracle’, but rather provides a rational foundation for understanding how the written word survives the very elements meant to destroy it.

Published in Dawn, EOS, February 1st, 2026



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GARDENING: SWISS ONLY IN NAME

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The colour of the mid ribs and stem often determines the name of the variety | Photos courtesy the writer
The colour of the mid ribs and stem often determines the name of the variety | Photos courtesy the writer

Different varieties of leafy green vegetables (locally known as saag) are commonly grown in the Subcontinent due to the favourable growing conditions here. These green vegetables are prepared in traditional meals that contain the signature South Asian touch. However, Swiss chard remains relatively unknown to many.

Swiss chard is one of the easiest-to-grow leafy green vegetables. Unlike other leafy green vegetables, Swiss chard has beautiful bright green-coloured leaves with white, yellow or maroon midribs and stem. No wonder that a few sub-varieties of the Swiss chard are referred to as rainbow chard!

It is also known as spinach beet and leaf beet, while other names reflect the colour of its stems. For instance, the ones with white midribs are referred to as silver beet and those with red or maroon stems are known as rhubarb chard. Its striking colour combinations make it attractive enough as an ornamental plant.

Scientifically known as Beta vulgaris L. var. cicla, Swiss chard belongs to the Amaranthaceae family, which was formerly known as the Chenopodiaceae family. While it is also considered a beet, its root is inedible. Due to its close resemblance to spinach and beet root, it is not recommended to grow Swiss chard near either of them. Pests and diseases affecting beet root and spinach will likely attack Swiss chard as well.

While many other types of saag dominate South Asian kitchens, Swiss chard — of Mediterranean origin — remains largely unknown here…

Contrary to its name, Swiss chard does not originate from Switzerland. The origin of the ‘Swiss’ prefix remains contentious. One theory is that it is widely grown in Switzerland. In fact, Swiss chard primarily originates from the Mediterranean region. However, it is extensively used in Swiss cuisine.

Another theory is that the botanist who first classified this vegetable was Swiss and used the prefix to create a distinction from other leafy vegetables. The most common theory is that the European seed merchants added Swiss to distinguish it from the closely related French chard. If that were not enough to confuse you all, the word ‘chard’ is of Latin origin, meaning thistle — a common gardening term referring to a flowering plant which has prickly bracts.

Swiss chard seeds resemble those of spinach
Swiss chard seeds resemble those of spinach

Swiss chard seeds are easily confused with those of spinach, due to their stark resemblance. The seeds of Swiss chard are faded brown to dark brown in colour. They have a dry, rough texture and are irregular in shape. The seeds are hard and are surprisingly light for their size. Like spinach, one seed of Swiss chard can result in three to four seedlings. For this reason, it is known as a seed ball, containing potentially three to four seeds.

Being hardy, Swiss chard has minimal requirements. One of the best aspects about sowing Swiss chard seeds is that they can be grown in almost any available space. You can grow it on a strip of land, small pots and even around other plants in the same pot. However, when sowing Swiss chard seeds for a full crop, certain aspects should be taken into account.

In climates similar to Karachi, the seeds can be sown from mid-October onwards or when the temperature falls to 20 degrees Celsius. The potting mix should be pre-moistened and clear of pebbles and stones. Seeds should be placed half an inch below the surface and covered with a layer of compost. The soil should remain moist, not wet.

Depending on the desired yield, any pot size can be used, since the roots are small. Pots should then be placed in a cool shade with indirect sunlight. If the Swiss chard plant is being grown in an open field or in raised beds, it should be shielded from direct sunlight exposure, to minimise evaporation.

Some gardeners prefer to soak the seeds in water for four to six hours to ensure better and quick germination. In favourable conditions, Swiss chard seeds are likely to sprout within one week to 10 days.

Please send your queries and emails to doctree101@hotmail.com. The writer is a physician and a host for the YouTube channel ‘DocTree Gardening’ promoting organic kitchen gardening

Published in Dawn, EOS, February 1st, 2026



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ADVICE: AUNTIE AGNI

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Dear Auntie,
Hope you are well. I am seeking your advice regarding a situation that has been bothering me for a long time. I’m a university student and I met this girl. She seemed very interested in me at that time and so was I in her. We had great chemistry, something I’ve never felt in my life. But I never confessed my feelings to her because of certain things I heard about her. Later, I found out she was dating someone. I internalised my love for her for quite a long time, almost a year, until I couldn’t hold it in, and confessed everything to her, even though I knew she was in a relationship.

The nature of my work requires me to face her and, whenever we work together, that chemistry-like muscle memory hits like a truck and I fall head over heels for her all over again. Even though getting her is nothing but a distant dream, I still can’t get over her and long for her all the time. It’s like a stalemate. I would really appreciate your advice on this.
Longing and Yearning

‘I Am Obsessed With a Woman I Can’t Have’

Dear Longing and Yearning,
This is a classic case of excellent chemistry but bad timing. Auntie has seen this film before and the hero always thinks that this one love is ‘different’. Maybe it is different for you. But the situation is very, very old.

Let’s start with the fact that you don’t want to face… that this is not love. This is emotional attachment, mixed with a heavy dose of imagination. And it is a powerful mix, made more powerful because the person in question is unavailable.

Every time you see her, your brain tells you “Ah yes, the unfinished business.” But notice something important… the girl chose someone else. This was not because you are not good enough, but because her life moved in a different direction. That is her choice, and chasing emotionally after someone who has chosen another path slowly kills your self-respect.

The chemistry you talk about is a result of you training your mind for a year to revolve around her. Of course, your brain runs back there. Our minds do what seems familiar and comfortable. Right now, you are feeding the feeling every time you replay moments and analyse your interactions with her. You are emotionally investing in a door that is firmly shut and you are wondering why you feel stuck outside. Of course, you are stuck!

It is time to start acting professionally with her. And it is time to stop any emotional conversations with her and avoid needless eye-contact. When your mind starts romanticising anything about her, interrupt it with reality, by reminding yourself that she is in a relationship and that you deserve someone who is available.

The person who is meant for you will not require this much suffering just to exist in your life. Mutual love is supposed to feel stable.

You are not losing her. You are grieving a life that you imagined. The grief will pass when you stop feeding it. You are simply holding on to an illusion because it once felt beautiful. Just let it be beautiful. And let it go.

Disclaimer: If you or someone you know is in crisis and/or feeling suicidal, please go to your nearest emergency room and seek medical help immediately.

Auntie will not reply privately to any query. Please send concise queries to: auntieagni@gmail.com

Published in Dawn, EOS, February 1st, 2026



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