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STYLE: DENTED BUT NOT DEFEATED – Newspaper
On the night of March 6, 2026, the Government of Pakistan announced a significant increase in fuel prices — by up to Rs55 per litre (an increase of approximately 20 percent) — making it one of the highest single-time fuel price hikes of all time.
It was a historic, debilitating rise that triggered panic at petrol pumps as the price hike would come into effect at midnight, on March 7. Horns blared until late into the night, with vehicles queuing in long lines to fill up on fuel before the increment came into effect.
The price increase, triggered by the ongoing US-Israeli war in the Middle East, occurred midway through Ramazan, a time when crowds flock to bazaars and malls for their Eid shopping. In the Muslim world, it is considered one of the most lucrative retail seasons of the year, with customers inclined to splurge, make impulse buys and stock up on clothes and gifts.
With the economy under stress and inflation looming, would people want to spend as they had in better times? And while they may continue to purchase necessities, would they be inclined towards indulging in shopping binges or luxury wear at a time when, in the near future, they may have to struggle to make ends meet, given the economic uncertainty?
The logical answer to this question would be a resounding ‘no’. After all, one would assume that stores and bazaars would be empty and, more specifically, fashion designers’ Eid collections would gather cobwebs, with customers no longer able — or willing — to purchase them.
The US-Israeli war on Iran and Iran’s expansion of the war to the rest of the Middle East has triggered global economic uncertainty. In the middle of all this, where does Pakistani fashion stand? While many fashion houses report little impact on sales so far, thanks to Ramazan and Eid, can this current cautious optimism last?
EID SPENDING VS ECONOMIC REALITY
However, some versions of reality tell a different story.
Just a week before Eid, mayhem ensued at the pop-up exhibit at a mall of Nia Mia, a popular high street brand. Huge crowds — eager to shop — broke down some of the installed barriers amid a lack of crowd control.
Historically, the market for luxury goods, including fashion, has invariably taken a hit during periods of economic uncertainty. However, until that ‘hit’ truly makes an impact, Pakistan’s Eid shopping crowds seem to want to shrug away their sense of impending doom and head out to the mall.
High-street heavyweight Khaadi, for instance, continues to draw in huge crowds. “Business has not been affected at all,” asserts the brand’s CEO Shamoon Sultan. “It is an unfortunate reality that Pakistanis have seen a lot and are very resilient. So, despite the crisis in the Middle East, their Eid shopping is continuing as usual.”
He continues, “However, on a macroeconomic level, if the hike in fuel rates continues, it can prove to be dangerous. It will result in an overall price increase across the board and we will feel the crunch in the following two or three weeks. I hope that the situation improves because, otherwise, wallets will definitely shrink.”
Uzma Ahmad, Director at Image Fabrics, echoes a similar sentiment and observes that business has been only slightly impacted by the war in the Middle East so far.
“We have a niche clientele that continues to make purchases consistently,” she says. “I also feel that we have managed to establish ourselves in the middle ground — between high street ‘massy’ clothes and high-end luxury wear — and offer an aesthetic line that is not only sophisticated but is also relatively affordable. So far, business has been doing well and we are expanding, with two stores all set to open right after Eid!”
THE LUXURY SEGMENT HOLDS ITS GROUND
The local market for luxury wear is similarly on a roll. For instance, designer Rizwan Beyg, who specialises in luxury couture, says that his Eid collection is selling well, with local customers remaining unfazed so far by the global economic climate.
Sania Maskatiya’s CEO, Umair Tabani, observes that the brand’s sales were helped by the fact that its festive Eid collection was launched some time before Ramazan, and credits the timing for this.
“Maybe, if we had launched later, when the crisis escalated in the Middle East, customers may not have been as eager to place orders,” he says. “We got lucky with the timing. Customers placed orders and made advance payments, and now, we’re just making the final deliveries.”
Designer Mohsin Naveed Ranjha believes the impulse to buy is emotional. “I think people just want to celebrate. They may be upset by what is happening in the world but, at the same time, they are happy to be at least safe.
“A slight dip in sales occurred around mid-Ramazan, when tensions escalated in the Middle East, but soon afterwards, people began buying again. And now, in the last week of Ramazan, business is doing really well, with many people rushing to buy their Eid clothes.”
Designer Mohsin Naveed Ranjha believes the impulse to buy is emotional. “I think people just want to celebrate. They may be upset by what is happening in the world but, at the same time, they are happy to be at least safe.”
Shezray Husain, CEO of multi-label boutique Ensemble, also comments on customers’ sentiments: “I think we are just a really emotional nation and Eid clothing holds sentimental value for us. We particularly obsess over what we want to wear on Eidul Fitr, considering it as a kind of ‘reward’ following a month of fasting.”
She continues: “I think perhaps, right now, the middle class is more concerned about the crisis in the Middle East and how it will affect their pockets. The customers who tend to frequent Ensemble, though, have yet to feel the crunch, and they are willing to make purchases right now. It helps, of course, that there are about 150 brands within our umbrella and there is a diverse price range to choose from.”
GLOBAL BLUES
However, on the international front, business for Pakistani brands is not continuing as usual.
“International deliveries are getting delayed,” confirms Mohsin. “[More specifically] deliveries to the Middle East are obviously affected and even orders to the US and Europe were routed via Dubai. They are now being rerouted and this is resulting in higher shipping charges and longer delivery times.”
Menswear designer Emraan Rajput adds that customers are also requesting that their international orders be placed on hold until the situation improves.
“A client living outside Pakistan had placed orders for a destination wedding that was scheduled to take place right after Eid. They have now asked us to stall production, as the wedding has been rescheduled for a few months later, when, perhaps, things may improve. Also, with tariffs on the rise, international shipments have become very expensive and customers end up paying more.”
He also adds that the domestic market has been affected, unlike many of his contemporaries.
“There are so many men who shop for their Eid clothes at the very last minute, with areas such as Karachi’s Zamzama area usually becoming clogged with traffic. This year, though, spirits are definitely down. Customers who would usually buy four kurtas are buying two, and those who purchased two are now purchasing one. The excitement simply isn’t the same.”
However, people are still buying, and it is interesting to note how customers’ shopping patterns vary between the high street and the market for luxury wear. They may be more hesitant to buy designer-wear priced well above Rs50,000, but their wallets still allow them to indulge in shopping binges at malls and during Eid festivals.
FASHION EVENTS: ON UNCERTAIN GROUND?
On her part, Maheen Kardar, designer and co-founder of Laam Fashion Week (LFW), observes that shopping activity has been continuing as usual.
For instance, she observes that the recent Laam Festival in Lahore was a success. “The footfall crossed over 100,000 people during the four-day festival and people were shopping and celebrating,” she says.
She believes that, as a nation, Pakistanis have really experienced an extended period of peace, given that political upheavals continue to occur, as do strikes, healthcare crises such as dengue or Covid and natural disasters such as floods or earthquakes.
“This has made us very resilient and we just go on with life. I haven’t observed any dampening of spirits, be it at the Laam Festival or as far as the orders being placed at my design house Karma, are concerned.”
Rizwan Beyg concurs, “We are a nation that starts making memes in times of war. It’s not that we don’t realise the seriousness of the situation. It is just that Pakistanis have gone through so much that we now just simply go on with life and hope that things get better.”
But will this tone-deaf joie de vivre continue with the world at war, the economy perpetually teetering towards crisis and a volatile political climate that could, at any point, turn against Pakistan? It is unlikely.
The Hum Showcase fashion show – a three-day event tentatively scheduled to take place in April this year — has now been “put on the back burner”, according to its show director Rizwan Beyg. “Sponsors are understandably hesitant at this point but, once things get better, we hope that the event will take place.”
CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM
Fortunately, as mentioned earlier, the first LFW took place in early February this year. It was followed by designer Hussain Rehar’s solo show in mid-February and then, the Laam Festival — an Eid ‘bazaar’ — this Ramazan.
Featuring trendsetting fashion, major designers and impressive catwalks, these fashion events had undoubtedly rejuvenated the local fashion scene, making one hope that fashion weeks — having slipped into the shadows since the pandemic — were going to make a comeback and perhaps, finally, Pakistani designers would step away from generic, commercial apparel and be more innovative.
Now, given the economic outlook, will the next LFW, scheduled for autumn or winter this year take place as planned? “Yes, we will be announcing the date soon,” says Maheen Kardar.
They are brave and hopeful words.
The news headlines may fill one with a sense of foreboding but, right now, like many businesses, the business of Pakistani fashion is resolutely forging ahead, hoping that inflation won’t take over and that customers won’t get demoralised and stop buying, and that the global situation will improve.
As Rizwan Beyg puts it poetically, “Fashion, right now, is dented, but not dead.” But it is dented. That cannot be denied.
The writer is a fashion and entertainment journalist with over two decades of experience. She can be reached at maliharehman1@gmail.com
Published in Dawn, ICON, March 19th, 2026
Magazines
THE GRAPEVINE – Newspaper – DAWN.COM
Music For a Cause
In the last few years, countless children have died and suffered in conflict-ridden zones such as Gaza, Sudan and Yemen and, most recently, Iran. In 1995, the British and Irish artists’ album Help highlighted the plight of children in war-stricken areas such as Bosnia and Herzegovina and aimed to raise funds for them. Help 2 has been released recently with a similar admirable goal. It has around 24 tracks and features musicians from all over the world, including Arctic Monkeys, Oasis, Olivia Rodrigo, Depeche Mode and Damon Albarn. One of the tracks, Lilac Wine, features our very own Arooj Aftab, who collaborated with Beck. We pray that children and the rest of humanity are spared the horrors of war unleashed by savages.
A Sour Split
Recently, YouTuber Rajab Butt announced that he is ending his marriage to social media influencer Emaan Fatima and has sent her divorce papers. The couple tied the knot in 2024 and the split has taken place on a sour note. Rajab B said that Emaan F accused his mother of stealing, made fun of his friends, and that there were even more factors that led to their parting ways, which he cannot share. He also said that no one can stop him from meeting his only son, Kivan. Emaan F responded on Instagram: “I have stayed silent to save this relationship. But first, the false allegations… and now his legal notice… what is the fault of my son and me in all of this?” We hope that both can move forward and find happiness eventually.
Minnelli’s Scandals
Actress and vocalist Liza Minnelli’s memoir, Kids,Wait Till You Hear This!, is out, and, boy, is it making tongues wag and jaws drop! Among the many celebs that Minnelli recounts stories about in the book, one is acclaimed filmmaker Martin Scorsese. According to Minnelli, she cheated on her husband, director and producer Jack Haley Jr with Martin S, during the shooting of the film New York, New York in the 1970s. “Our love affair had more layers than lasagne. We were both Italian. Passionate. Intense. Committed to our craft. We both had volcanic tempers… He was a diabolically handsome man who shared my love for film.” Martin S’ PR team hasn’t responded to Liza M’s passionate, intense and volcanic claims so far.
Rihanna Under Fire
On March 9, a woman called Ivanna Lisette Ortiz opened fire on pop star Rihanna’s Beverly Hills home. The 35-year-old had an AR-15-style weapon that she used in an alleged attempt to murder Rihanna. The singer was in her mansion at the time, along with her boyfriend, rapper and record producer A$AP Rocky, and their three children. Luckily, no one was hurt. When the police reached Rihanna’s house, they arrested Ivanna L O and booked her for attempted murder, and her bail is set at $10.2m. In hindsight, it seems that Ivanna L O was completely off-track. After all, it was Rihanna’s house she was attacking. Didn’t she realise that she has a security Umbrella-aa-aa-aa?
A Pulpy Riposte
A few weeks ago, actress Rosanna Arquette criticised filmmaker Quentin Tarantino — with whom she worked in Pulp Fiction — for using the ‘N’ word frequently in his films and said, “It’s not art, it’s just racist and creepy.” The director recently responded, “I hope the publicity you’re getting from 132 different media outlets writing your name and printing your picture was worth disrespecting me and a film I remember quite clearly you were thrilled to be a part of… After I gave you a job, and you took the money, to trash it for what I suspect [are] very cynical reasons, shows a decided lack of class.” Quentin T, now that was a pulpy riposte. But we didn’t expect anything more from you!
Break Time
A significant number of cine-goers disliked Varun Dhawan’s performance in Border 2, despite the film being a box office hit. Apparently, he was seen smiling in scenes where he wasn’t supposed to, among other blunders. (While on the subject of Varun D, who can forget his repeating his character’s proclamation that “This time, we will not just cross the border — we will change the border itself”, which earned the wrath of Pakistanis.) The latest news is that he has decided to take a break from acting to spend some quality time with his family. We think it’s a wise decision on Varun D’s part. It will give everyone a respite from his bad acting too.
Published in Dawn, ICON, March 19th, 2026
Magazines
STREAMING: BUILT FOR ACTION – Newspaper
In War Machine, a Netflix original, not one but two war machines collide. The first is an unstoppable killing engine from another world, and the second is a US Army staff sergeant who just wants his unit to make it home alive. Since this is an action film, we know that won’t happen.
Alan Ritchson (perfectly cast) plays the unnamed human war machine. Two years before the main action of the movie takes place, he and his brother’s unit were ambushed in Kandahar, Afghanistan. Wounded, he tried to carry his brother back to base. The brother died, but he received a Silver Star. However, the honour continues to gnaw at him.
Physically recovered, he pursues entry into an elite ranger programme as a way to cope and redeem himself, because it was the last dream the two brothers shared. On his final attempt, he gets in and is assigned the number 81. (Rangers are not called by name, we learn.)
Though he aces every drill and outperforms every trainee, his superiors, Sergeant Major Sheridan (Dennis Quaid) and First Sergeant Torres (Esai Morales), aren’t impressed, as 81 isn’t a team player. He doesn’t bond, barely speaks, can’t sleep, and pushes himself until he collapses mid-drill.
Director Patrick Hughes keeps Netflix’s War Machine taut and entertaining and it is thoroughly recommended
Nearly dismissed by his superiors, he and his fellow trainees are sent on the final wilderness exercise, where an extra-terrestrial meteor crashes, carrying the alien machine. As the unit is cut down, 81 — wary of leadership and burdened by PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder) — becomes the only one capable of keeping the survivors moving — and alive.
Surprisingly, for a military man, 81 is a pacifist in terms of his instincts and a reluctant combatant. Unlike most action heroes, his reflex is to protect and evade to keep casualties low. That restraint becomes his most effective ammunition.
Ritchson, known for his work in and as Jack Reacher, is literally the hero of the film in every meaning of the word. Tall and rugged, he has the physicality of any 1980s or 1990s action hero, albeit with an inverted persona. Built like a tank, he plays 81 with a fragile soul. His voice is soft, unsteady, his hands tremble continuously and the viewer realises that this man is geared for defence, not offence. This is a masterstroke.
Director Patrick Hughes (The Hitman’s Bodyguard) keeps the pace taut. The screenplay, co-written with James Beaufort and Hughes, channels the no-nonsense drive of Predator and Aliens, though the sheen is updated with sleeker, new-age filmmaking tools.
That is where the film slips.
War Machine’s colour grading defaults to the bleached, teal-grey-leaning palette that has been standardised since Saving Private Ryan (1998). The look all but flattens its otherwise premium tool set. The film is shot on the top-of-the-line Arri Alexa 35 cinema camera with top-tier Angenieux, Cooke and Cauldwell lenses — believe me, this is as good as it gets, quality-wise.
The second problem is the alien machine’s design. The angular, humanoid design, with machine-gun turrets, missile launchers, and a laser cannon in the middle, looks like the generic version of battle mechs from video games, toys, and Saturday morning cartoons from my youth.
Still, like its opposing forces — one driven by grief and duty, the other programmed for annihilation — War Machine doesn’t stop, nor does it let the viewer flinch. Although it has a hopeful open ending, one wishes that the film doesn’t become a movie series, as things will only go downhill from here, because the good ammo is all used up in this fine, thoroughly recommended action film.
Streaming on Netflix, War Machine is rated suitable for ages 18 and over, because of the fatalities
The writer is Icon’s primary film reviewer
Published in Dawn, ICON, March 19th, 2026
Magazines
WIDE ANGLE: RACE RETICENCE – Newspaper
The race of Heathcliff, the brooding antihero of Emily Brontë’s 1847 novel Wuthering Heights, is a much-discussed element of the classic tale.
Brontë variously describes him as “a little lascar, or an American or Spanish castaway”, “that gypsy brat”, not “a regular black”, the offspring of the “Emperor of China”, and the son to an “Indian queen.”
But in her recent film adaptation, director Emerald Fennell has cast white Australian actor Jacob Elordi in the role. What does this mean for our understanding of the story?
Is Heathcliff white?
Scholars, especially since the late 20th century, have debated Heathcliff’s racial identity without forming a consensus. They continue to examine the text for evidence. He has been variously identified as Irish, a migrant fleeing famine; African, found at the Liverpool docks (then England’s largest slave-trading port); or Romani, often shorthand for a racially ambiguous and “threatening” outsider.
I do not feel the novel invites us to identify Heathcliff with a fixed racial identity. The book’s strange, otherworldly and almost hallucinogenic nature resists clear interpretation.
Emily Brontë’s Heathcliff wasn’t white. In the new film adaption of Wuthering Heights, Jacob Elordi is. Is that a problem?
In 19th-century Britain, post-Enlightenment Europe and the United States, the concept of race was categorised and studied, and exerted a strong influence on government policies and popular culture. People were placed into hierarchies of humanity to justify slavery, colonialism and genocide.
This system of “scientific racism” — as it has come to be known — placed “whiteness” at the top. But this notion of whiteness was different to the one we hold today, which explains Heathcliff’s racial “otherness” as being associated with Irishness. Brontë’s novel, and Gothic fiction of the age more broadly, depicts race as something more malleable and fantastical.
In the case of Brontë’s Heathcliff, his racial identity seems to shift and morph, sometimes rendered supernatural and demonic in the eyes of other characters. His darkness and inhumanity are emphasised and seem to intensify in moments of brooding anger and villainy.
His complexion darkens and his eyes become, in the words of the maid Nelly, “black fiends” that glint and lurk “like the devil’s spies” with “a half-civilised ferocity.” Heathcliff’s inhumanity, as tied to his non-whiteness, seemingly rises to the surface, as if the stain of his moral degradation seeps through his soul to appear on his face.
Critics of the casting
The casting of Elordi as Heathcliff has come under scrutiny. Some readers and critics have interpreted Brontë’s book as a critique of British institutional racism in the late 18th century, when the novel is set, and the Victorian era (1837-1901), when it was written.
One such reading is that the novel links the oppression of white women to that of non-white subjects of the British Empire, to critique social structures of violence, cruelty and inequality. This reading sees the novel’s representation of female subjugation as a mirror image of the oppression that people of colour faced at the time.
Many critics of the film have said it isn’t an accurate adaptation, and it misunderstands what Brontë’s text is really about. But an argument around “intent” is hard to make, since we can never really know what a novel “is about.” We can only guess.
And there are limitless interpretations of a text, especially one as strange and enigmatic as this one. As such, though race is a part of the original Wuthering Heights, assigning a singular, definitive meaning to the novel’s representation of race is complicated.
In Brontë’s novel, nothing is as it seems. The ever-shifting image of Heathcliff — at once appearing to be a lascar, a Native American, Spanish and black — would be difficult to depict effectively on film. Film lacks the imaginative malleability of the reader’s mind’s eye, which can hold all these descriptions of Heathcliff’s image at once, allowing this Gothic strangeness to occur.
Race in Fennell’s film
While Heathcliff is cast as white, Fennell casts people of colour in other roles.
Fennell’s film is not interested in the racial commentary many critics have found in Brontë’s novel. The characters in Fennel’s created world do not appear to engage with race the same way people do in our world.
American-Vietnamese actor Hong Chau plays Nelly Dean (a housemaid in the novel, but an illegitimate daughter to a nobleman in the film), and English/Scottish-Pakistani actor Shazad Latif portrays Edgar Linton, Cathy’s wealthy and respected husband. The casting of Edgar, a man of wealth and status, as a person of colour undermines the intersections of oppression and race that existed at the time.
I think Fennell’s decision to ignore race is a missed opportunity to foster a more nuanced discussion of race in the late 18th century and Victorian Britain.
Victorian Britain was shaped by the legacy of the transatlantic slave trade, the presence of black people on its soil (who in some instances, had in the past been enslaved), and its colonies in Asia and the Middle East.
While it would not have been common to find people of colour in the Yorkshire moors in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Britain (including Yorkshire) wasn’t as white as is widely believed. Fennell had an opportunity to highlight this fact.
Instead, in the film’s casting of Elordi as Heathcliff and Latif as Linton, we see a reticence to engage with the question of racial oppression at all. While this doesn’t make the adaptation “wrong”, it adds to the film’s almost complete lack of depth.
The writer is Lecturer in English Literature at the University of Wollongong in Australia
Republished from The Conversation
Published in Dawn, ICON, March 19th, 2026
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